Yesterday I attended the Amazon AWS Summit in Cape Town. The talks were good – even Werner Vogels, the CTO of Amazon.com, showed up! Getting to speak to experts in their fields and AWS engineers from the world over was eye-opening for sure.
A couple friends and I participated in the IoT Hackathon, which Intel kindly sponsored. Given an Arduino 101 (containing an Intel® Curie™) and a Grove starter kit, we had a couple of hours to have fun and see what we could hack together. As we were new to AWS’s IoT platform and the Python libraries we were given, it took us some time to get it up and running but we ended up with a working prototype.
We designed a notification system for a cold room refrigeration system to monitor temperature door opening/closing events; When it would be opened or closed, the door state and its temperature is sent over to AWS and logged. We planned to add a stepper motor to simulate our door among other features, but we didn’t have enough time; We had to just use a push button to toggle the door opening and closing.
Here’s a video of our system, and some pics:
The members of team AckerTech, from left to right: Joseph Rautenbach (me), Matthew Baas, Torsten Babl, Bradley Fourie.
All in all, it was great fun. Our team came second place, so next year we’ll be back for round two!
Whew, long time without another post – it’s been a busy time, glad to get back to blogging.
This post is going to explain the basics of using American 110V Christmas lights on a 220V electrical supply, by splitting the light string in half and putting them in series instead of using a dedicated voltage converter.
Last Christmas I was in the U.S. and, as a fan of large bulb C7 Christmas lights, I picked up a nice old set for a grand total of $9.49.
They looked and worked great in the hotel room, I just needed to modify them to work on a 220V supply that we use in South Africa (and most of the rest of the world). I could have used a voltage converter but this string uses over 100W, a large transformer would be needed ($$$).
A cheap and easy solution is just to split the string in half, and have both sections connected in series; each section would receive 110V.
UPDATE: Project featured on Hackaday.com! See here
I recently finished up on my Peltier Mini fridge project, and it works great!
It can cool down whatever you want that’ll fit in it — six 330ml cans for example — and can get down to –2.1°C!
Watch the video for a full description and how it works. I gotta say, it’s really cool, excuse the pun!
Around a month ago I purchased a Sipik SK68 LED flashlight clone on eBay, for a grand total of $4.04! Shipping took around three weeks which isn’t bad considering it was free, but when I started using it there was a really annoying design flaw. The Flashlight It is focusable and runs on one AA […]
Character LCDs are displays that consist of many character “blocks”, and each block can display a letter, number, etc. In the world today, there is one display controller/driver that dominates this market, the Hitachi HD44780 driver. I have talked about this in another post on reverse engineering a printer LCD. HD44780-based character LCDs usually come […]
A few weekends ago I got hold of an old broken Canon printer/scanner combo. One thing that caught my eye was the display. It was a 2×20 character LCD (2 lines, 20 characters per line) which is better than some others I have which are 2×16.
Here is an image of my finished example project with this display:
Work out exactly what levels you need to enchant your armour/tools at in order to receive a specific enchantment, calculate all possible enchantments for any item with a certain experience level and calculate the most efficient way to get to a certain experience level. This tool does all of this, and is an essential tool […]
The Nokia 3310 LCD is well known in the electronics community. It is a monochrome graphics LCD with a resolution of 84×48 and was originally used in the Nokia 3110 and 5110 handsets, and is relatively old (1998), but in my opinion it is brilliant for its price.
I purchased mine on Dealextreme for only $5.60 (link to the product page here), which is a very good price considering what is possible with this display. It came in a nice breakout board so it can be used directly on a breadboard.
If you remove the casing on the breakout board, you will find out that the display looks just like a piece of glass, and has a PCD8544 controller chip embedded inside it.
This controller has an easy to use SPI protocol and handles all the hard work of driving this display (multiplexing, generating bias voltages, ect.).
Driving the display is relatively easy with any microcontroller. However, it runs on and uses 3.3V logic, so you would need level shifters to shift the voltage down.
I have been attending the George Education Electronics Engineering & Computer Society, or G3ECS, and have been really enjoying it. Anyone living in the George/Garden Route area should really attend this. We have a huge variety of people attending from all ages, and we are planning to build a couple of robots. I enjoy it […]
I have uploadad a video which demonstrates an application I wrote up for a client. It loads and displays a master RSS feed and allows the user to view the content. The articles are sharable to many online services including Facebook, Twitter and Tumblr. You can also copy or email a URL to the article. […]